Sunday, 19 April 2015

Turkey

At the end of March we went on our first ever trip to Turkey with our friends Will and Annelies. We spent just over a week at Jo-Si-To's campsite in Geyikbayiri which is just inland from Antalya. Unfortunately it rained most days of the trip but luckily the walk-ins were short and the routes were steep!

Jo-Si-To campsite with Trebenna in the background.


On the first day we headed over to Trebenna to check out the very cool tufa lines it had to offer. Sadly the majority of the routes were seeping and so we walked back down to the campsite and up to a crag called Left Cave. This crag was literally a 2 second walk from the campsite and had some amazing steep lines! We warmed up on a 6c called 'Rocket Man' which was a very pleasant climb with a tricky crux. I then moved on to a a super crimpy 7a called 'Camelita'. I managed to sketch my way through the gnarly crux, totally reading the sequence wrong! To end the day we both sent a bouldery 7b called 'Toxic Gravity'. This climb was fairly straightforward with only a couple of hard moves in the middle...but they were really hard! Neill went for the onsight and came off at the crux. After he found a good sequence he gave me the beta and I managed to flash it and he did it second go.

The next day we walked up to Sarkit...a whole 10 minutes! This was a very nice crag but unfortunately a lot of the lines were wet and so we warmed up on the 6b+ 'Saxafon', Neill swiftly dispatched 'Inner Smile' 7b+ and we moved on to a sector called Mevlana. Here we just tried one 7c called 'Bad boys in town' which was an amazing route with a very interesting crux involving finger jams! Neill went for it first and worked out all the moves. I then went for the flash and got all the way through the crux to just under the chain and then...BAM! My foot popped! We both did the route second go...bloody shawdy footwork!

Bad boys in town 7c

After a rest day we headed back up to Left Cave as it was pretty rainy and this crag stayed fairly dry. We did a nice 6c+ called 'Mission to Mars' which was quite steep and pumpy. We then jumped on one of the only dry routes at the cave 'Junimond'. This was a 7c+ which went right through the roof of the cave and up onto a tricky headwall (which was slightly damp!). My first go was pretty good, getting to the last hard move just before the lip of the roof! Neill did the route super smoothly second go so the pressure was on! I managed to get through the hard lower section which is about 7b and made it to a good rest. After recovering for a bit, I blasted through the roof section all the way to the crazy jump round the lip. I set myself up and lunged for the good hold and somehow managed to hold it! I kept it together for the last tricky bit and clipped the chains on my first 7c+!

Junimond 7c+

Junimond 7c+

The last few days were spent avoiding rain at Alabalik and Right Cave. I did an amazing 6b+ called 'Stalactusaurus' which is aptly named as you have to mount a giant stalactite halfway up the route! After that I did a very cruxy 7b+ second go. It was called 'Sloper Poker' but there were no slopers to be seen...only filthy crimps!

Sloper Poker 7b+

On the last day I managed an unexpected quick redpoint of a veryyyyy bouldery 7c called 'Blockage Orange'. This route had the hardest moves that I have ever done on a route ew timesever! It was basically a boulder problem from the first to third clip and then about 6b to the top. I got it on my 3rd go and even power screamed a few times! It was a great way to end the trip.

We really enjoyed Turkey and will definitely be going back, hopefully to some better weather!



Since getting back from Turkey I have managed to get out a few times in Scotland. I visited Upper Cave crag at Dunkeld and managed to flash 'Hamish Teddies' 7b+ and do 'Silk Teddies' second go! These routes and sooo good, I will hopefully get back up there soon and try Silk Purse!

We have also just returned from a wet and cold week in Glencoe. We stayed in an amazing lodge next to the Clachaig and visited Tunnel wall, Steall Hut and Brin rock. Tunnel wall was unfortunately a little bit too cold as it's in the shade but I still managed to send 'Uncertain Emotions' 7b. I really enjoyed the crimpy style of climbing here and can't wait to try some of the harder routes!

Uncertain Emotions 7b


Brin Rock is just south of Inverness and was defo worth the drive. It was a little warmer and the routes were brilliant! I onsighted the amazing 'One and Only' 7a, one of the best 7as i have ever done! Super techy climbing on lovely rock. I then went on to do 'Whinging Consultants' 7b+ on my second go. This felt pretty stiff for the grade with a really hard boulder problem start! Neill managed the hardest 7b in the world..'Pink wall'. 

The One and Only 7a

At Steall Hut we warmed up on a wet and mossy 6c and then had a play on 'Leopold' 8a. This was a pretty bouldery 8a with a very powerful crux. We both managed all the moves but the send will have to wait until next time! I still think the bridge is scarier than the climbing!

Steall Hut




Our last day in Glencoe was spent doing the Aonach Eagach ridge in the sunshine! It was the best day of the trip and we both finished with tired legs and sunburn!