Wednesday, 30 May 2012

Upper cave sport madness

Yesterday i had a wee trip to upper cave with Stuart Burns, some nutter from Ratho. We both tried Ultimat Necat 7b+ . I had been on it a couple of times before but only in silly temperatures or when it was wet. I put the clips in, with quite a few rests and then Stuart went up and worked out some sequences. On my second attempt i slipped off just under the first bolt (which was pre-clipped) and just pulled back on from there. Annoyingly i got to the top but it didn't count! Luckily i managed it 3rd go and Stuart managed it with only a couple of rests.

Sunburn in Glencoe

Saturday was spent being absolutely fried alive on the East face of Aonach Dubh. We left early to avoid a super sweaty walk in but it was already about 20 degrees at 8am ! We walked up past Freakout (very high on my wishlist) to the weeping walls. On the bottom tier we climbed Curving crack- Severe, which had an amazing second pitch. After walking across the terrace we headed up Archer ridge HS. The route was a little bold at the start but the climbing was stupendous! 

second pitch of curving crack

another gun show.. with amazing view

chilling in the sun

Instead of finding the descent path (im sure there is one somewhere) we ended up down-climbing Lower Bow Moderate which was pretty interesting! After sunbathing for a bit, we went to the Kingshouse for some food and drink. It was so hot that the deer were walking about in the river outside about 20ft away from us! Amazing day but was a little bit burnt after it.

Thursday, 17 May 2012


Wooo got some climbing done in the lakes last weekend, well saturday was good and sunday was diabolical ! On saturday we headed to shepherds to climb the last few routes that we hadn't done there. We started on Black Icicle E1 which had a tricky wee first pitch, followed by a pretty bold second pitch. Next we jumped on monolith crack. Luckily i seconded the second pitch which was rather offwidthy and i managed to crimp my way up the wall to the right! Really need to improve my crack climbing skills. The classic P.S E1 was next on our list and it didn't disappoint. A great sustained first pitch followed by a cruxy second pitch, what a climb! After shepherds we headed to the pub for an hour then straight to Reecastle for an evening climb. The crag had quite a few seeps so we went for the amazing finger flake finish to the Rack E2. This is definitely one of my favourite crags and the three classic E3s are certainly some of the best single pitches i have ever done. On sunday we drove back to Edinburgh through the rain and insanely strong winds. I did actually take photos this weekend but being a dafty, i left my camera in the lakes. Luckily a very nice man has emailed me and is going to send it to me and so the photos will be on shortly!

Unfortunately i will not be climbing this weekend as i'm working at Ratho for the European Youth comp, should be exciting.


first pitch of P.S.

Showing off the guns!

Tom Randall eat your heart out :P

P.S again

First pitch of the black icicle

Monday, 7 May 2012

Rain Rain Rain!

Hey guys , sorry i haven't updated for a while but i have been super busy (not climbing unfortunately :( ) but doing my work placement at Ratho. Just started last week and the placement is 2 months long so i think im gonna have an awesome time! Unfortunately, the climbing side of things has been a little scarce due to this wet weather. Last week i was at Upper cave, Dunkeld. We put a rope up on ultimat necat 7b+ but the top of the route was like a waterfall. However i did manage to get it in one push on a toprope so should definitely go next time. Yesterday we headed down to Borrowdale for the day. Leaving at 5am, we got there for 8 and managed to do 10 pitches. We climbed at Quayfoot Buttress, yet another new crag for me. Although a little dirty, the route were still amazing, especially Irony HVS, with a tricky crux through a roof. I admit, i had no shame - i used a knee! We also decided to solo the classic VD at the crag unaware that it was a bit of a water/drainage line. This made it a little more exciting! Anyway, next weekend we have got 3 whole days to find somewhere dry! Would love to get to Skye (probably being too optimistic) but we'll just wait and see.