Thursday, 19 April 2012

Snow in Glasgow!

On Saturday we headed over to Dumbarton to attempt some of the highly praised sport routes. This was the first time i had ever visited this crag and although the main wall, especially chemin de fer, looked impressive, the place was a bit of a dump. We arrived pretty early(after finding bacon rolls !) and so had the crag to ourselves, however, it was absolutely freezing! Although the sport routes that we had planned to jump on looked quality, the wind from the Clyde made it far too cold to climb.
Spotted at Dumbarton!
We decided to head back to the car and try to find Dunglass, a small sport crag that we had been to last year. With only a small road map, we surprisingly managed to find the crag pretty easily and were on the rock within an hour. The weather here wasn't much better, infact it actually snowed (only a tiny bit) while we were climbing! We did manage two amazing little routes though which definitly saved the day. They were the beef monster left and right hand variations , 7a and 6c. Hopefully next week we will get some sun, it is nearly May after all!

Wednesday, 11 April 2012

Cornish Gold

This Easter we managed to get a 9 day climbing trip in the South-west of England. Being keen and not wanting to waste any climbing time we left Edinburgh at 9pm and drove down through the night, arriving in Bristol at 7am! We hired a van for the trip but luckily i was too young to go on the insurance so i slept the whole way down . RESULT :).

After finding some bacon rolls in Bristol we headed for the suspension bridge to knock off a few classics before heading down to Cornwall. We had amazing wee half day and climbed 5 pitches, not even noticing the polish as it was only 4 degrees!

Signing the visitors book in the cave.

Climbing out of the cave in an amazing position!

Talking to tourists on the bridge :)

We arrived in Cornwall later that day, threw up the tent and awoke to glorious sunshine. The next day we went to the uber famous Bosigran and climbed all day. After 14 pitches i had absolutely no skin left but this was easily the best climbing of the trip and the crag definitely lived up to the hype. 

Golden Granite 
seond pitch of doorpost

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We climbed the next 2 days doing as much as possible in the baltic conditions. It was brass monkeys at night as we were camping and the tent almost got blown away on Tuesday night. This artic weather encouraged us to change venues for the second half of the week and we scuttled off down to Portland. 

Sport climbing on Portland

We climbed the next few days in various sectors, onsighting up to 7a. We followed the sun round the island till last light and did loads of routes, having fun with the odd dispensable hold!

Who knew bolts could be so scary!

Thank god about the insurance malarky as it was a ten hour drive back to Edinburgh the next day. I slept like a baby :)

Possible first ascent of Penzance posty?

...and traffic light! Member of my support crew (Brian) standing watch.